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Convertible Top
This is the typical Convertible top offered for these boats in the '60s. They were really small and low. That would not work for my family, so I decided to make my own. (Note: This is not my boat, but it is an MFG)
The project starts with this used Bimini top from e-bay. It is way too big for my boat, but it does offer lots of aluminum tubing and 4 bows so I have lots of options on the size and shape of the top I design.
The boat was measured for width. Each top support was disassembled into the two side legs and the center bow. The center bow piece had 10 inches removed from each end, then the side legs reattached. In the picture the large top support is the original size, the smaller one has been cut down and the corner bends have been tightened with the conduit bender. The two 10 inch sections are near the top of the bow.
Three bows were cut down and reassembled into the basic top frame. All new jaw slides, end pieces and mounts in white nylon are used to match the white color scheme instead of the black that came on the frame.
Plain brown masking tape is used to support the bows while setting up the frame. It works well and is easily removed and reattached.
From the rear you can see that the top mounts at the widest part of the boat. At this point I am not sure if a track slide will be used to move the top out of the way when folded down. Top mounts in both horizontal and vertical were ordered so I have the choice of mounting on the top or inside of the gunnel.
Just using this Sears basic machine that does regular and zigzag stitches. So far it has been working well.
The top fabric is Odyssey III. It's described as " a polymeric impregnated fabric designed for many indoor and outdoor applications. Odyssey III has superior strength, abrasion resistance, mildew and UVR resistance color fastness and lasting outdoor durability. Highly water repellent but not flame retardant." Its weight is 6.5 oz. per square yard, and is 100% woven polyester.
The grey spool is outdoor quality thread. Think I bought enough?
Cut and started sewing up the top. At this stage the front section and rear section are sewn together and a tube for the frame to pass through is incorporated into the seam over the front bow. My sewing skills leave a lot to be desired. Having a hard time making nice clean straight seams. They wander a bit, but I don't think it will really show.... I hope.
Common masking tape holds frame in place while fitting and marking up the top material.
Last fitting before sewing the front and rear sections. Last chance to play around with different mounting points on the gunnel before cutting and sewing the front and rear.
The snaps for the windshield frame are stainless steel with screw built in. Spacing is 5" on the snaps.
Setting up the slide track for top mounting. Tried to mount the track on the inside of the gunnel but the top frame would bind against the gunnel and not go down more than half way. So top side it is!
Here the top is folded down. It falls across the middle of the open floor so boarding, tilting the motor and accessing any gear is difficult at best. In a boat this size space is at a premium. That is where the slide comes in.
This is about as far back as the top should slide before it interferes with tilting up the motor. It opens up the rear area and sits nicely over the splashwell. The slide is well worth the expense.
The top is held tight in the up position by two adjustable straps the clip onto loops anchored to the side of the gunnel.
Finished top came out better than expected, although it could be a bit tigher. Maybe adjusting straps and frame will tighten it all up. It has nice clean lines that go well with the style of boat.
The top is as large as I could make it without apearing to be out of proportion with the boat. Could have made it lower for a more sporty look, but it would have become akward to get to the front seats. Making the top higher made moving around under it easier, but it started to look wrong for the boats size.