Here is the V16R as it was when bought.

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The original hull looking backwards from the helm. I plan to glass two new seats built into the splashwell.

Here is the old donk, an inline 6 mercury blueband. Compression down in one cylinder, and a bit of a rattle. The engine will be repainted and pulled apart to assess the damage.

I noticed some cracks under the motor and decided to take of the motor to see whether the transom needed repair.

Well after the motor was removed, we decided to remove some of the glass around the cracks to determine why it was cracking in the first place. Well, the transom had been previously repaired, but not too well! There was little glass matting used and its place, lots of Automotive bog. The transom had been raised about an inch by the use of hardwood blocking. An additional piece of ply had been added to the transom but was completely rotten. Still trying to decide whether to keep the original transom or install a new sheet of marine ply.

here is the additional marine ply that was added to the transom, it was removed due to rot.

Well after a bit of an attack with the angle grinder, I was able to reach the original transoms marine ply. I believe it was raised as to keep the sea out, this makes sense to me as the original transom looks quite low. Measured from keel to transom was 20 inches which was what was expected. The state of the ply is damp, but i dont think it is rotten.

The splashwell had to be cut out so that I could access the transom from the inside. I may as well glass the two seats into it now whilst it is over the boat. I am hoping to have the transom and seats completely done by christmas!

Here is a picture of a later model Haines V16R's splashwell. As you can see, the additional two extra seats provide the added benefit of carrying extra passengers whilst not aquiring cabin space.

With the splashwell removed i got far better access to the transom. The fibreglass on the inside had delaminated from the wood

View after some of the delaminated glass removed. You can see the wood is damp. I am still unsure whether it actually requires replacement as i dont think it is rotten.

A filler was made by combining resin and talc. This was mixed into a bog like consistency and it was applied to the outer side of the timber. To aid adhesion approx 40-50 screws were used to clamp the join together whilst glueing as well as a long batten with clamps.

Here is a pic of the dried filler as described previously.

Finally we are getting somewhere. It is starting to look more like a boat again!

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I am good at making air bubbles in the fibreglass. These will be ground off and a new layer of glass will replace it. These occur because the glass cannot be bent at such a tight radius. In order to bypass this, we need to construct a fillet which will allow the glass to adhere properly.

The edges surrounding the transom were then filled using the similar talc/resin filler. This time however more talc was used so that a thicker mixture was produced.

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What a dirty job! The transoms fibreglass had to be ground back to a taper so that the new fibreglass can adhere properly to the hull. I got covered in that filthy white dust!

The inside edges were also ground back.

The first layer of glass is in and now the timber is being keyed to the hull. Another two layers will be applied to ensure a good solid bond.

The seats for the splashwell are being moulded from this old school chair. To prepare it for the mould it was cleaned, then 3 layers of wax were added. PVA was then applied as a release agent.

A mould will be made from this seat before the seats are glassed up. You can see the first layer of gel coat applied.

A mould for the splashwell verticle pieces. Same process as before for mould preparation.

A simple stand I constructed to keep the engine off the boat. You may be able to see that the engine does not have a proper coat of paint on it, as it being repainted whilst the transom is redone.

Well years of salt water contact has caused these mounts to become useless. A solution will need to derived before the engine is returned to the hull.

One layer of 450gm chop strand applied to the back of the transom timber and keyed into the original transom. 2 layers to go.

Ground back the slot before filling with resin mixed with talc.

The splashwell sides have been laminated and are cut and waiting for fixing to the original splashwell

Every single screw hole that was left from the laminating of the transom to the transom timber has been filled with the ever famous, resin/talc mix!

Here is the new much smaller splashwell. The sides have been tapered in to allow for the seats. I hope my measuring was ok and the engine will fit!!! Took me a while to get used to, but the smaller splashwell has grown on me.

The first of the seats is glassed in, it still needs to be trimmed down, but will be done so when the other is in to ensure the two are identical.

Will need to cap off this hole, was thinking about possibly turning it into a storage hatch.

The second seat whilst waiting for it's first layer of fibreglass to dry. Should look ok once both are trimmed down.

Well, the completed transom and the nearing completed splashwell. Almost ready for a quick coat of flowcoat and then refitting of the engine.

Here is the finished transom with a VERY rough coat of flowcoat. In winter the entire boat will be restored so i figured a rough coat and make the most of the remaining warm water.

The hole was capped using a precut sheet of fibreglass and bonded into place. I may turn this into a live bait tank yet...

Speaks for itself. Gunwale rubber needs to be refitted.

Close-up of the seats.

Seats in more detail. Drainage holes still need to be drilled

The splashwell was rebonded to the hull. Again, may be rough, but still functional. WIll get a good paint in winter

Inside of join

Picture of whats left of a sheared off sparkplug

Sparkplug as a result of being sheared...

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