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84 Bayliner Capri - Force 125 OB

 

and so it begins...

It's in the garage for the winter and The Atlanta area doesn't get super cold :-)

 

not too bad

for a 23 year old boat it's not too bad. The glass will still shine, there is one mark above the rub rail from a prior owner. They glassed it over but never bothered to sand it and finish it.

 

looks aren't everything

for an old boat it looks ok. I was pleased with the seat recovering. Looks can be deceiving

 

jump seats

even the back looks presentable

 

removing seats

Bayliner made the seats easy to get out, but not the boxes that hold up the seats!

 

me working hard

or is that hardly working? :-)

 

bolsters out

still looks fairly clean but I have a pretty good idea what is under the carpet

 

floor close up!

I think this picture speaks for itself!

 

what floor?

look closely and you's see two holes, one that exposes the top to the gas tank, the other to the left where my foot went through... And what happened to the glass that is supposed to cover the wood anyway? :-)

 

cutting it out...

4 inch grinder, a face shield and a breathing mask. What a mess! I just keep in mind how much I love being on the water :-)

 

Pulled the fuel tank

The tank came out fairly easily, now I need to decide between having someone check for leaks or spending $200 to replace it

 

nasty floor

As you can see, this floor was really nasty! The stringers are SHOT!

 

Floor, another view

I found that for the pieces where I don't risk hitting good fiberglass the SAWZALL helps a lot!

 

front seats removed

I've made a bit more progress. The seat boxes front and back are out. There was no wood holding this floor together. More like wet particle board. I really wonder if Bayliner glassed both sides of the wood. Based on what I'm seeing, I doubt it.

Take a close look and you'll see somthing the factory never installed. Someone in the past knew the floor was rotting and rather than repair it, they installed a sub-frame to prop up the rotting wood.

 

the bow

the sawzall is great for getting the big stuff out but I'll need to use the grinder to remove the stuff on the hull. Get out the breating mask and long sleeves! :-)

 

The grinding is done

I guess it's been a while since I've posted new pictures, I had a few distractions.

 

and clean too...

After I finished the grinding and collected as much of the nasty dust and debris as I could, I got out the power washer and finsihed the job

 

rear view

I was lucky, even though the stringers were bad, the transom seems to be in tact.

 

A few errors

In a handfull of spots I went a little deep with the grinder, I'm sure it will cleanup nicely when I'm done.

 

Supporting the hull

The hull design is interesting, for almost 3/4 the length of the hull, there is a fiberglass channel built around a one inch square piece of wood, The stringer sits on top of the channel. The two dark spots in the photo are the open ends of the channel that are still in good shape. I'll use a fresh piece of wood and re-build the channel before putting the new stringer on top of it.

 

Stringers Replaced

I took a few months off to work on my honey do list but I'm back again. My goal is to have the boat back in the water May first... It's the beginning of February now, so that should be possible.

 

Stringers View 2

These Stringers were a pain to get straight and even then I know they aren't perfect. The fuel tank fits well and that's important.

I used pressure treated 1x4s I found at home depot for the lenght and then the triangles in the back against the transom are standard 3/4" ply cut to shape.

 

Fun fun Flotation foam

This stuff is crazy! I used 2 lb foam. The first time I poured way too much, it was like a big mushroom cloud! :-) I originally thought I would put down the floor and then inject the foam after each of the pieces were down but I think it was easer to pour the foam and then use a hand saw to cut the excess.

 

New Floor

The floor is done!!!

I used 1/2" exterior grade plywood commonly available at home depot or lowes. I used cardboard to create a template. I ended up doing 3 sections leaving a 1/4 inch or so gap around the edges. All wood had at least 3 coats of resin before I put it in the boat. This includes the edges.

I laid matt cloth along the top of the stringers and wet it down and then thicked resin along the edges allowing each section to harden before I moved to the next.

 

Finished Floor

When all the sections were in place, I used thickend resin to fill the gap along the edges and then woven cloth accross the entire floor to really seal it up.

What really surprises me is that I've used almost 10 gallons of resin so far and I still need to re-build the seats!

 

Bow seats

It's been a while sine I added pictures and I've done quite a bit of work. Thanks to Boatman64 for advice on installing the bow seats. All that remains is to cut the access holes for the storage. The most interesting part of this was forcing the hull into the correct shape so the walk through windshield lined up correctly. It's not perfect but it will do the job.

 

Jump Seats

I still need to cut the access hole in the center but I was happy with this part.

 

Lounge seats

I attempted to re-create the original seats only a few inches higher. What a pain in the !@#$%! These are diffeent than the original in that they will be open for storage.