Start with a Phillips screwdriver and remove the two screws holding the air cleaner cover in place.

After removing the air cleaner cover, you can see the stock filter element and backing plate.

With the filter element removed, here's the stock air cleaner's backing plate. You can see the 2 head breather bolts and the throat of the carburetor in this shot.

You'll need a 5/32" allen wrench to remove the carb mounting screws.

Using a 5/32" allen wrench, remove the 3 carburetor mounting screws.

You'll need a 5/16" allen wrench to remove the stock head breather bolts.

Using a 5/16" allen wrench, remove the 2 stock head breather bolts.

Carburetor after stock air cleaner has been removed.

My "bird" finger is touching the low-speed fuel adjust screw location in this picture. The screw is tamper resistent and has a metal plug so you cannot adjust it. Supposedly, adjusting this can improve the lean off-idle sputtering that is common on newer Harleys. I am not going to actually make any adjustments here, but it seemed like a great time to get rid of that metal plug.

I don't recall the bit I used here, but I can tell you I used too large of a bit. It was difficult to keep the bit from walking. My hole was not centered and I damaged the edge of this adjustment screw housing. It is definitely not a problem, but you should avoid my mistake. Once I got the tip of a smaller bit all the way through the plug, it easily came out. So my advice would be to use a bit a couple of sizes smaller than the diameter of the plug. The plug should come out once your bit penetrates the plug completely and you won't have to be so precise in drilling the hole.

A photo of the low-speed fuel adjustment screw with the tamper resistent plug removed.

Insert the 3 screws (these screws are threaded about half way and are of a smaller diameter near the head) into the new air cleaner backing plate. Screw these guys in all the way. They become a "captive" screw arrangement where the narrow part of the screw shaft is in the threaded insert. They are free to move about, but will not fall out without unscrewing them.

Peel one side of the carburetor gasket backing off to expose the adhesive and carefully place the gasket onto the carburetor side of the new backing plate making sure you line up all of the holes.

Put some blue Loc-tite on the threads sticking out of the carb side of the backing plate and through the gasket AFTER you get them screwed all the way into the backing plate. (Pardon my boot)

Using a 5/32" allen wrench, install the backing plate to the carburetor by tightening the 3 mounting screws. The instructions give a torque spec on these (I think 36-60 in-lbs). I had to wing it since I don't have a torque wrench for that range.

The new head breather bolts had some thread sealant already on them. If you are installing a used kit, you'll probably want to clean the threads of old sealant and apply some fresh sealant. The instructions called for more Loc-tite on these new bolts.

The instructions called for 10-20 ft-lbs on the new head breather bolts. These bolts have a lot of threads and need to go in a good bit before finding their home. You should alternate and give them a couple turns each time. Keep fiddling with this backing plate as you tighten them to make sure the entire thing is finding its "happy place" between both cylinder heads. The carburetor is mounted by a rubber sleeve so it is primarily these head breather bolts that mount your new air cleaner on your bike.

The head breather vent tubes simply slip over the head breather bolts. Position the tubes to fit in the plastic "troughs" and to point into the throat of the carburetor.

The instructions called for more blue Loc-tite here on these bolts that mount your air filter element to the backing plate. These also called for 36-60 in-lbs I believe and again I wung it. Because of the foam gasket on the back side of this element it is CRUCIAL to evenly tighten these bolts. It's best to give them each a couple of turns and then move to the next one. Repeat until they are all starting to snug up and then worry about torquing them properly.

Place the cover screws in the cover and place a spacer over each. Put the concave side towards the cover. This should appear obvious since the cover has a mating convex surface where these spacers go. (NOTE: If you want to use that "Screamin' Eagle cover insert, you need to place it on the front of the cover before putting the screws in on this step.)

Place a retaining washer on each of the cover screws and thread it up snug so it will hold the spacers in place.

Now is a great time to get the oil cleaned from the inside of your filter cover.

Peel off the backing to expose the adhesive on the cover gasket and apply to the inside of the cover. The location is very obvious, but you may want to put in there and make sure you are comfortable with this before peeling off the backing. Once you peel off the backing, press the gasket in place, working your way around the cover and the entire length of the gasket. This is why we cleaned the cover in the previous step. That gasket wouldn't stick at ALL with a film (or puddle!) of oil on the surface of the cover.

Apply blue Loc-tite on the air cleaner cover screws.

Place cover over filter element and screw in place. Another inch-lbs torque spec on these screws, so I wung it yet again. You're done! Crank that bad boy up and enjoy.