Useful Links

Case 310 Crawler Tractor

 

As it arrived

Well, I needed to park it somewhere, so in the garage seems to work OK. Also lets me work on some of the minor things that need attention.
Its a model 310 serial number 3003969. Which was built in 1958. That was also before they started calling them 310C, D, E, etc. This has a gas engine. And, It has the loader and large solid counter weight on it.

The history of this unit as I know it:
Dad bought this from a Case dealer in about 1970, I think it was previously owned by a construction company. The track chains and rollers were is pretty rough shape when he bought it. All of the rollers and the track pins and bushing have been replaced around 1972 - 1974. When I was in high school 1978 - 1979 we rebuilt the clutch and pressure plate in it.
And with in the last couple of years dad also replaced the steering brake bands.

 

Some of the tags on it

This is the model tag on the left hand tool box. The unit also seems to have been painted both color schemes. The original seems to be the Flambeu Red and yellow scheme, then it appears that it was repainted entirely construction yellow

 

Rear labels

Here are the rear labels and the weight. This unit is early enough that it still says Teratrac on it and some of the casting on the loader have ATC on them. JI case bought out American Tractor Corp, ATC in 1956 and this was built 2 years later.

 

One problem I need to fix

This has the 'old style' master link pins in it. and the cross pins are missing. so the pins have seized in the bushing and are turning in the chain and have worn it badly. Need to get some advise on how to fix this..

 

It needs a Tune up BAAAAD!

Based on the paint on original distributor cap and the paint on the spark plug wires, this tractor has not had either replaced since Dad bought it in 1970. The points and condenser in tractor has been replaced and seem to be in decent shape.

So we started locating the supplies for a tune up. Here's the distributor cap we finally tracked down at Advanced Auto.

The 'car' parts stores actually had the Distributor cap, and the rotor. They had to order an oil filter for me.. And I got a new wire set and 'tune up' kit from Tractor Supply

This is the AL-35 - Now AL-15 distributor cap. This cost less than $7

 

Converting parts numbers what fun.

I now have three different sets of part numbers for the ignition parts for this tractor. The original 1960's numbers from the parts book. A second set I pulled off the forum and the newest - latest numbers based on the GP Sorenson web site.

This is the 'tune up kit' # 0236318 from Tractor supply, it cost $18 and contains the correct rotor, points and condenser for the autolite ignition system.

Case 310 G148 Motor Ignition parts:
































Description Old AutoLite New AutoLite GP Sorenson (AdvancedAuto)
Cap 3-11 AL-35 AL-15
Rotor 4-10 AL-85 AL-87
Points 1-45 AL-4556XP AL8890A
Condenser 2-32 A-200

A-202

ALC74

ALC72



Cross checked at http://www.gpsbrand.com/web_app/oeinterchange.aspx

Others parts

Oil Filter Baldwin T300-M Fram C159 Purilator L30007

 

Need new wires

I also found these at Tractor supply # 0236635, for $10. A complete kit of wires for 4 cylinder engine, with coil wire, boots, contact ends, etc. Copper core wire as needed. The right angle boots for the spark plugs really worked out great.

 

The Finished Install

All Done, man does it run about 1000% smoother. Some of the original wires no longer had the brass contacts on the ends, so it was put the wire trying to make contact inside the cap.

The white stuff is lithium grease. A friend that does antique cars recommended 'axle grease' instead of vasoline to coat and seal the boots. Of course standard grease is NON CONDUCTIVE, so I was careful to NOT get the grease inside of the sockets in the cap.

 

Oct 2007 - Dad, It won't shift out of reverse !

My son was driving the 310 loader, leveling out the 20 tons of rock just dumped on our driveway when he comes to me and says; "Dad, the tractor won't shift out of reverse, actually it won't shift at all, the lever is loose"

Ya, right. Sure enough the stick shift handle just flops around in the transmission. Based on where the tractor was sitting and the fact it was in reverse, I was able to pilot the tractor into the shop on reverse only.

I grabbed the parts book, thank God I have one, and, it looked like the easiest 1st step was to take the snap ring out and pull the shift lever out. When we compared our lever to the parts book, there was something missing.. The end of the shaft. Looking down the hole we were finally able to locate the missing piece, but our magnetic retriever was too weak to pull it out and the piece slipped further into the transmission. We had to remove the "control cover and Guide plate" from the side of the transmission to get the part out. Confirming that in fact the level has broken in two.

The lever appears to be made of cast iron and it was welded previous in a different spot before even my dad owned this tractor.

Well, a day and $15 at the local welding shop and the lever was back together.

The really fun part was that when we removed the "control cover and Guide plate" the forks that shift the gears in and out of mess pulled out and then NOTHING lined up right. After 2 hours of work, and having to take the floor pan out to get a better look at things, we finally got the forks lined up and back in place..

At least it was that simple, not like we lost a joint or gear or something.