Under car work continues with hooking things up and securing everything. A/C lines are added and also coolant hoses. I don't have a good picture of the water plumbing, but a crossover pipe was made and installed to connect the front engine outlets to the left side water pipe that runs to the front.

The throttle position sensor will interfere with the strut tower if left mounted from the factory.

A bracket was built to mount the sensor up and out of the way. It was linked to the throttle with stanless steel safety wire, and works great. The bracket still allows for proper adjustment of the sensor.

As seen, the sensor now clears the tower. This is something I learned from my first build, and the answer came from V8 Archie. The strut tower could have been notched (like I did before) but this is such a simple way of fixing it.

As seen here, the shift cables are installed, ignition wired and not seen, plumbing complete. A notch was cut in the trunklid to allow clearance from the upper manifold. I do not have any pictures of the exhaust system to show how they were routed, but any muffler shop can bend the pipes as needed.

Some V8 swaps use a large flex hose that crosses over from the right to left of the compartment, but a simple crossover pipe was bent up at a muffler shop and used as a water pipe under the car. It makes for a much cleaner installation.

The battery was located to the front. A custom mount box from Archie was used, and allows for the spare to be mounted.

While up here, a new custom 4 core radiator was installed to keep things cool. It just bolted in and works with the stock fan motor. I did hook the fan to a switch for manual control to keep it cool in traffic, and it never overheated.

The fuel tank was removed to install an AC/Delco EP242. This pump will keep up with the demands of the new engine. It bolts in place of the V6 pump.

The fuel system is connected with high pressure lines from the tank, filter, fuel rail and return. The hoses are routed away from the exhaust and any moving parts and clamped secure. Braided steel lines would be a better choice, but this line worked.

This gauge shows proper fuel pressure. Besides the proper pressure, volume must be greater. The pump used is stock from a Buick Grand National.

An aftermarket wire harness was used to wire the engine up. It was mated to the stock Fiero harness, avoiding a piggyback arangement that would require the use of the stock Fiero ECM. A Camaro ECM is now in place of the stock unit. I have since lost the diagrams on how to do this, but remember it was pretty straight forward using both the Fiero and Camaro diagrams.

After the wiring was done, it was cleaned up and installed to look stock. The ECM is mounted behind the center glovebox. Better to make it look right than to keep a rats nest, and it makes for any future troubleshooting easier.

The car came with an auto transaxle, and I swapped it to a 5 speed. I had to add the pedal assembly, slave cylinder, lines and shift cables along with a manual shifter and console pieces. I used new hydraulic components for the clutch, and got everything else from my previous Fiero project. These can be found online and at the wrecking yards, and will bolt up just fine.

All the stock Fiero sending units were used for the gauges. The tach was rewired to read correctly with the V8.

This setup always impressed the unknowing at the car shows. It also surprised a lot of folks at the drag strip. It ran low 13 second 1/4 mile times, but could run into the 11s easy with some engine work. I never raced on the street, but did have some fun on the highway. There are more details I have not listed, so to learn more, go to www.v8archie.com and see some of his cars.