This is the Moeller fuel tank for the project. It measures 18"L x 12"W x 17"H to the top of the tank, and 18.25" to top of filler. It came with fuel gauge sender, 1.5" filler and 5/8" vent. Holds 14 gallons. I like the Moeller tank because the gas level can be seen right through the tank. So if the fuel gauge goes on the blink, the level can still be determined by just looking at the tank.

Coast Guard regulations specify that marine grade hoses must be used on a boat. They have a fire resistant cover as an exta safety measure that auto hoses don't have. These hoses meet the regs, and are identifiable by the red stripe on the side. Big hose is 1.5" ID for the fill, the other are 5/8" for vent and 5/16" for the fuel line.

To keep an eye on the fuel level, a Teleflex Sportsman fuel gauge is being added to the dash to the right of the wheel. While I am cutting the dash, a volt gauge will be added too. It will indicate the condition of the electric system, if the battery is charging or regulator is failing. It will be mounted to the right of the wheel to help keep the dash design looking balanced.

Additional hardware for project include this stainless steel fill, 3-way valve, vent, brass hose barbs, and primer bulb. Also have stainless steel hose clamps and other misc bits and pieces. The 3 way valve is designed so that if inputs are on left and right, output is on top. A fuel line connector will be one of the two inputs to the valve so a portable tank can be brought and easily connected if I want extended crusing capacity. Plan is to mount the 3-way on the inside of port gunnel just in front of the splashwell. The output hose barb gets too close to the inside top of the gunnel, so a 90* elbow will be added between the valve and hose barb to prevent possable tears or kinking of the fuel line.

Trial fitting the tank platform. The tank is just a 1/2" too long to fit in front of the lip of that little bulkhead. To get around that problem a raised platform was made from pressure treated 2x4 and 1/2" plywood. The hull is a little wider at the raised height allowing the fuel tank to be moved forward and totally clear the bulkhead. This is important because I may add a full compartment wall to hide the view of the fuel tank and it will rest just in front of the bulkhead. Moving the tank forward an inch gives that needed clearance. The plywood was attached to the 2x4's with water proof construction adhesive and a few screws to hold everything in line while drying.

Here the tank is in the location where it will be attached. Still kicking around various methods of strapping the tank to the platform. Sanded the floor clean to bare fiberglass, then attached platform using construction adhesive. Getting a good idea of how to run lines and wires. Tank is much closer to deck than anticipated, but still enough space to make connections.

Decided to use a strap to secure the tank. This strap is plenty strong for holding the tank in place. It will loop around the tank and under the platform to attach it solidly in place.

Added "sidewalls" to the platform to keep the tank from sliding around. Then tank strap was installed and snugged up tight. Carpet was cut and fit back around the tank. Nice, neat and secure.

The two new gauges reside to the right of the steering wheel. This is a good opportunity to hide some holes made by prior owners of this boat. So the plan is to cut the gauge holes so they include the unwanted holes. This picture shows one gauge hole cut, and the other unwanted hole to its upper left.

The hole plugs left from cutting gauge holes show the two holes other people made.

The gauges are mounted. Room was left to the right so a third gauge can be added to the group making a V configuration. I didn't buy a third gauge because I'm not sure what type gauge to add. Maybe a water pressure gauge, it will let me know if the pump fails while underway without having to keep looking aft at the tell tail or waiting for the temp gauge to read hot.

This is the fuel switch assembly for switching between the main gas tank, auxiliary tank (via the Evenrude connector) and off.

Fuel enters switch from main tank through left hose barb and exits switch through bottom elbow and hose barb. On right side is the Evinrude connector so a portable tank can be plugged in. Switching to Auxiliary connects the Evinrude connector to the bottom exit port.

The Fuel Line Switch was installed in the Port Gunnel just in front of the splashwell. The connector for an auxiliary tank is visible just below the gunnel.

To mount the fuel hose securely to the hull under the gunnel, small blocks of pressure treated 1/2 plywood were epoxied to the hull. Then 1/2" plumbing pipe clamps were put on the hose and screwed to the blocks with 1/2" stainless steel screws. This method is used to secure the hose to the boat from the gas tank to the motor.

Another view of fuel hose as it snakes it way through the boat. This view is from behind the dashboard.

The primer bulb is out of sight under the dash. It is about a 10 inch reach to the bulb, not uncomfortable and more convenient than running to the rear of the boat to squeeze a primer bulb. Vent hose is visible behind it.

The fill plate is installed, fuel line and vent too. Tank strap worked well.

Deck Plate is in, and so is the vent. I put 5 gallons of gas in the tank and shook the boat around. No leaks. Primer bulb works good too, no problems with it being mounted horizontal.

Fitting the Deck Plate to the deck was time consuming because the ridges on the deck had to be ground flush to allow the Deck Plate to rest directly on the deck.

Close up of Deck Plate. That groove in the gel coat is an "oops" I made while grinding down the ridge.

Here is a shot from the first test runs taken from video. It shows how the boat rides much flatter even under heavy throttle "hole shot" as in this picture. Even though this was not full throttle, the boat can still be seen running very level with good attitude on take off. That's my Dad in the passenger seat. Brave soul.

Another shot from video shows how flat its riding while cruising about 15 - 20 mph. Moving the fuel weight from the rear and adding it to the front made a dramatic improvement in the handling of the boat. As long as there is between a 1/4 and full tank, the porposing that occurred at full throttle is gone. It rides very nice. The extra weight in the bow helps it cut through chop and wake better than it did with the gas tanks in the rear. I am very pleased with the results of this project.