Front quarter view.
No matter how you looked at it the old cabin top is ugly and will have to go.
The trailer is its original which was built in 10/73.
It is in excellent condition considering the age. Even the galvanising will last a few more years before it needs to be redone.

Rear quarter view.
Note the temporary light and number plate board I had to put together to tow the rig back home. (approx 80 miles)
The lamps are HELLA LED Submersible and should last well.

You can see from this picture that the 'sharp bit' is cut off the front of these hulls.
This was done in the design by the factory to fit within the regulations at the time for a charter boat.

The view from the stern. Note the note on the rear deck. It was rotten and was removable almost by hand.

Top view of new cabin structure taking shape.
I am using WEST System products on this project. These were purchased from my local boatbuilder as he is a major user and stockist of West System.
It is the first time I've used their products and I am pleased with the ease of use.

Basic construction is now completed and already looking more user friendly.

Jan 5th 06.
I have fitted a new Capstan into the cabin roof.
The plywood had to be laminated up to a total thickness of 60 mm (2,3/8") to give it the strength needed.

Underside view of Capstan showing the motor.
It protrudes into the cabin head space by approx 120 mm or less than 5".
I will protect this by placing a storage shelf underneath this motor.

Interior view of cabin area showing completed repairs to stringer attachments to hull.
This was taken after the cabin had been 'daylighted' so I could get access into the floor without being bent over double like a hobbit to work in there.
The new beam at the rear of the cabin is Fijian Kauri.

My boat did not even have a fuel tank when I bought this project.
Here is the new tank installed in the center of the hull. Approx 120 litres capacity fabricated in Stainless Steel (2.0 mm thick).
The fuel pickup and gauge assy is fitted into the top at the far end of the tank closest to the engine.
The hole is large enough to get my hand inside the tank to clean it out if needed

Battery installation completed. All the switch gear is from BEP Marine and the charging system is fully automatic for the aux battery.

Right side view of the engine.
Volvo B30 series (3.0 litre / 181 cid) as used in the 160 series of autos but with triple downdraft carbs. Factory rated @ 170 hp.
Not bad figures for its day.

Port side of my engine. This shows the new Header Tank that I had made for my FW cooling system.
It also shows the relocated Fuel Filter now fitted in a position that you can service it from without having to break any knuckles in the process.
The Alternator in this pic has been replaced as below.

I won a new VALEO 12v 55amp alternator off Trade Me Auctions recently.
It was covered in thick GREEN paint as it was off a new Volvo Marine Diesel. Yes it has a sealed comm ring.
I dismantled the unit completely and stripped the paint away then had the bits beadblasted to finally clean the surfaces. All the parts then were sprayed with clear laquer to seal the surfaces from salt attack.
When completed I had our Auto sparky run it up on the test bench as a final check. All OK.

Front of my new Alternator.

This time I am fitting a Heat Exhanger to the cooling system as my boat will be used in the sea most often from now on.
The white box at the top of the picture contains all the switchgear that has been relocated from the switch box on the top of the tilt rod tube.
The old relays etc were u.s. and the wiring was a mess in there as well so overboard it went.
Electrically it works better now and is easier to service.

The new bulkhead and dash construction with the instruments fitted into the panel.
I have had the past 4 months off the project due to some surgery on my hand but I am back on the job now.
This part has been the project over Christmas and progress has been good in the past few days.

This is the current view behind the helm from the cabin side.
The old Rotary RideGlide steering system is still in good order. I had to make an adaptor to fit the Momo steering wheel (donated from a written off Mazda MX5 sports car) onto the old type tapered square shaft in the helm.
These parts are all preliminary fit and will need to be removed prior to sealing all the new timber with epoxy.
I used Fijian Kauri to reinforce the helm mount and all the other timber used is NZ Kahikatea (White Pine.)
All the timber is being processed to size using my own machinery from 6 x 2 and 8 x 2 rough sawn lumber.

This was result of my New Years Day labor.
Fixed in place and ready to fit the top shelf in place now.

A cupboard will be fitted in from this side to store my charts etc.

8th Jan.
The top is fixed in place now. This is going to be a useful place for refreshments etc.

8th Jan.
I have fitted the front panel for the chart locker and cut in the stereo head. It is inside the cabin so I dont need to waterproof the case.

The deck had become separated from the transom on the glue line.
After carefully lifting it up and cleaning the gunge out of the gap I glued it all back together and then glassed over the joint the next day.
The deck ply and the coaming is yet to be replaced in this shot.
Result? nice and strong again.

The Stbd side deck had substantial rework done to repair damage from dry rot.
The whole deck was removed for 18" fwd of the transom.
Everything was detached from the transom and replaced with new timber etc.
This was a lot more work than what was needed on the oppposite side (above).
The inner coaming has been replaced with new ply and is now very solid.

June 6th.
I have completed most of the frame work for the aft deck.
All glued, screwed and lightly clamped.
Let the curing begin!!

Part 2. Front face of new rear beam.

The deck (3/8" ply) is now fixed down for good. It has turned out quite good even in the rough state.

The OMC Aux mount bracket that I have had for about 4 years is now on its new home. Some deck fittings have also been fitted.
Shown are 2 sockets for the baitboard mounts and 2 rodholder on the coamings.
The 6hp motor you see was a "TRADE ME" buy. Totally dismantled when I received it some months back.
I rebuilt it with new .030" piston kits and have reassembled it over about 2 months as I managed to gather up the parts I needed for it.
It runs very well and I am pleased with the outcome.
The transom is very deep and this long shaft motor looks about right on the waterline when lowered for use but is well clear of the water when not in use.
This motor will mostly be used for lake trolling so I can manage the boat speed better than when running on the main.

Here is the baitboard sitting in place now.

The beginning of the support system for the coaming on the starboard side.

Inner side now fixed in place. I need to get a plate cut to mount the remote housing onto and cover the access hole.

Jan 5th 06.
Mounted on its own plate and fitted to side panel.
Looks good to me.

The s/hand windscreen I found in a boatyard.
It is too wide for my cabin but it is made from fibreglass so I can do a hotrod "chop and channel" job on it to make it fit.
All the perspex needs to be replaced anyway so I will use a light smoked tint.

09/17/06. The windscreen frame has been cut to width now and is sitting in place on the cabin top.

Rear view of windscreen frame sitting in place.

This shows the pump unit for the trimtabs mounted on its base. The coaming above the levers needs to be trimmed back to allow the Stbd lever to swing through its arc.

Note Stbd lever clearance problems

The coaming has been trimmed to clear the lever and is being sanded to final finish.

Another test fit for clearance.

Rechecking the clearances.

Final installation and inspections complete.